This tutorial explains how to read the Xbox360's NAND/Flash via a PC's parallel/"printer" port in as clean and easy as possible a way. The same method is used to dump all models of the Xbox 360 (Xenon, Zephyr, Falcon, Opus, Jasper).
Please keep quick & dirty setups and speculation out or, in case some guesswork is really needed, flag them, so this article and the whole wiki can develop as trustworthy sources.
There are guides to dump via USB, but compared to this it's quite expensive and easily found with a search. Maybe someone will add one later on.
If you're facing any problems, feel free to ask in #free60 on OFTC. :)
Moreover thanks to tmbinc, Tiros, Redline and all else involved (feel free to add their names) for their great work! :)
First of all, you'll need soldering skills—if you've never used a soldering iron before, you should train on a less expensive object. This skill level is similar to adding a modchip to a console.
You'll need the following:
:*LPT (parallel) port (preferably supporting SPP)
:*1 × diode BAT41 - There are several diodes you can use. People on xboxhacker.net had the best experiences with BAT41, others used N4148. I (kote) used PH4148.
:*5 × 100–120 Ω resistors - not a must-have, but it'll protect your box
:*LPT cable - Hollow connector housings will make your life easier. Alternatively, use a bare DB25 male connector and wire.
:*Multimeter - (Voltmeter/Continuity)
:*A lot of patience and spare time ;) - A third hand will make your life easier, too
:*32-bit OS/PC - The necessary PortIO(?-Guessing) driver is available for 32-bit systems only. There is a 64-bit port, however NandPro2 compatibility is unknown (22/08/2009). Since many 64-bit systems don't have a parallel port, this shouldn't affect many people.
:*64-bit Update: Go here. Download 'Binaries only - x86 & x64 DLLs and libs'. Extract inpout32.dll from Win32 folder to nandpro folder. Rename inpout32.dll to DLPortIO.dll (credit)
:*NandPro - NandPro (by User:Tiros Tiros on xboxhacker.net - for reading out the NAND image.) seems to work with Windows Vista 32-bit and Windows 7 32-bit. Windows XP Compatibility Mode or running with administrator rights may be necessary. XP or earlier is preferred.
:*Verifying NAND Dumps:
::*File comparison Utility - MD5SUM, SHA1SUM, (Total Commander)
::*360 Flash Tool - (there are different versions! The latest is V0.88a CD FIXED [22/08/2009])
::*NAND Compare and Reconstruction Tool - (compare 2 nand images or reconstruct image from 3 bad reads)
Preparing the cable
First of all, there are different kinds of LPT cables out there. If you got one with at least one male DB25 connector, you will be fine. There are also cables with two DB25 connectors and possibilites to do it without any DB25 connector. However, this tutorial is supposed to be as universal as possible, so we will behave like there are only cables with one connector.
Well, whatever is on the other end of your cable, cut it off. So you will get a cable with a DB25 connector at one side and loose wires on the other side.
Now you need to trace the wires in the cable. If you've got a cable with openable plug housings, you're in luck: just open the housings and compare single wires with those on the loose end. Otherwise it's time for your continuity tester. You will need to know which wire goes to which pin at the end. Write down the colour of the wire attached to each pin. Since there are only seven needed wires, you don't have to trace every wire. The following pins need to be connected: 1, 2, 11, 14, 16, 17, 18. In case a pin isn't connected, just resolder a wire from an unneeded pin (e.g., 15) to the needed one (e.g., 14).
I (some11) bought a LPT Cable (Nikkai LPT Parallel Printer Cable [L79BT]) from Maplins.
Here is the wire color map output:
|Pin||Color (Main/Second)||Pin||Color (Main/Second)|
|Pin 1||Yellow||Pin 13||Black|
|Pin 2||Pink Black||Pin 14||White|
|Pin 3||Pink||Pin 15||Grey Black|
|Pin 4||Orange Black||Pin 16||Grey|
|Pin 5||Orange White||Pin 17||Purple White|
|Pin 6||Orange||Pin 18||Purple|
|Pin 7||Red Black||Pin 19||Blue White|
|Pin 8||Red White||Pin 20||Blue|
|Pin 9||Red||Pin 21||Green (Different)|
|Pin 10||Brown White||Pin 22||Green Black|
|Pin 11||Brown||Pin 23||Green White|
|Pin 12||Black White||Pin 24||Green|
|Pin 25||Yellow Black|
After you've done that, you can cut the unneeded wires at the loose end so they won't bother you while soldering. Strip a small amount of insulation (5 mm should be plenty) from the end of each of the other wires, and twist the loose strands inside together. Tin each wire, so that you get nice and sweet clean wires.
Opening the Xbox 360
Preparing and Soldering
Once you have a clear view of the board, it's time to locate the solder pads of J1D2 (red) and J2B1 (blue).
You will have to establish the following connections:
|DB25.18||nothing||J1D2.6, J2B1.12, or a screwhole|
This is how you count on a board: http://www.abload.de/img/howtocount5y02.jpg
The square is always 1, in this case J2B1.1. Also, notice the white dot near pin 1 and the labels near pins 2, 12, and 13.
"Component" means that you will have to add the resistor or diode between those two points. I suggest that you first solder the component on the board and after that the wire to the component. The diode's black ring has to be in the direction of the Xbox board. By "screwhole", we mean a screwhole. (The ground (or "earth") connection we're using is also present on J1D2.6 and J2B1.12, but those are difficult to solder.) Solder the wire from DB25.18 to one of those big reddish rings (where the long screws go through the DVD-ROM drive legs), and fix it with insulation tape (NOT DUCT TAPE! Otherwise you will damage your Xbox). '''It is important that you solder the diode directly to the board. It won't work if it's in the plug housing! ''' LPT (parallel port) connections are the same for Xenon, Zephyr, Falcon, Opus, and Jasper (but JTAG connections are different between Xenon motherboards and the other ones).
New Xenon exploit diagram: http://i.imgur.com/Fdjmi.png
Diagram (including LPT & JTAG connections): https://web.archive.org/web/20111202124409/http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/31/spidiagramsandungas.png
Another diagram (including LPT & JTAG connections): https://web.archive.org/web/20111202142124/http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/4983/xenondiagram.jpg
Slim diagram: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/32/lptslim.png/
- Is every wire connected to the correct pin?
- Are there any short circuits or doubly connected wires? (Watch out for sprawling solder!)
- Have you taken everything out of the box that doesn't belong in there?
When you've checked that, plug the parallel cable into your turned-off computer, the power supply into your Xbox, and the power cable into the power outlet.
Setting up your PC
Turn on your PC. It's possible that your Xbox will turn on, too. Don't worry, just leave it turned on. As long as it doesn't start to smoke, smell, or anything else weird it will be fine. Later on, it should turn off the fans on its own, but the LEDs will remain blinking. If it doesn't turn on: don't worry, it doesn't have to be turned on while reading the NAND.
Go to the BIOS settings and search for LPT mode settings. Tiros recommends SPP/Normal mode in his help file (Nandpro.txt), but the mode doesn't actually appear to matter. If you're having trouble in the next step, give a different mode a try. After you have done that, save settings and leave BIOS. Boot up Windows.
Now the time has come to unpack NandPro2. In the archive you'll find port95nt.exe (driver) and some other files (e.g. NandPro.exe). Install the driver. If you're using Vista or higher, you might have to turn on XP Compatibility Mode, as already mentioned. To install it, just double-click on it and walk through the setup. There shouldn't be any error messages. Then: reboot.
Reading/Dumping the nand twice and drinking coffee.
Prepare the coffee. ;)
Windows should have booted up now. Open up Windows Command Prompt (press Windows Key + R to open up Run. Type cmd and press Enter).
Navigate to NandPro's installation directory by using common commands (cd, dir, and the TAB key for auto-completion). Then type nandpro.exe lpt: -r16 nand1.bin and press enter. If everything's fine, it should output this:
Testing LPT device address:0378 // address can differ
Using LPT device at address:0378 // address can differ
FlashConfig:01198010 // must be the same (except Jasper boards, see next block)
Starting Block:0x000000 // Starting and ending should be as shown here if you want
Ending Block:0x0003FF // to read the whole flash [you want! :p]
If you get FlashConfig: 0012000 try soldering the diode directly to the motherboard instead on having it on the conector side. It worked for iD4rK, and others.
The Flashconfig is dependant on the mainboard version, other valid values are:
FlashConfig - System Types
01198010 - Xenon, Zephyr, Opus, Falcon
00023010 - Jasper 16mb
008A3020 - Jasper 256mb
00AA3020 - Jasper 512mb
Press any key to continue. It should start to count up addresses. If it starts to output stuff like "Error 0 .. blah blah" something's wrong. Recheck wiring, change LPT mode, or try a different computer. It is possible that there are one or two bad blocks on your NAND (error 25x), so don't worry if you get that error once or twice.
Well, the reading (dumping) process will take about half an hour. So head to your coffee machine. ;) Unfortunately, we will need at least two dumps to check whether there are really no failures in your dump. So once NandPro has finished dumping, press the up arrow key (or retype the command), CHANGE THE FILENAME TO NAND2.BIN, press Enter, and dump it a second time. Get another coffee. Or turn on the TV. Maybe you have got a girlfriend?
When NandPro2 has finished the second dump without errors close the command-line.
Checking for errors
First, open up both files with 360 Flash Tool. If it looks like in the picture beneath this, everything should be fine. If an error message "Couldn't open file" pops up, something went wrong.
:*http://www.abload.de/img/360flashtool4ld2.jpg Second, start up Total Commander. Choose File -> Compare by content. A new window will open. Select both files and click on compare. If they are identical: congratulations! You are done with this. =)
If not, search for errors in wiring etc. or try a different PC.
:*http://www.abload.de/img/totalcommander6zw7.jpg While 360 Flash Tool will show you the content of the NAND, it's not a conclusive check whether the integrity is good: it's possible to get a "thumbs up" from the utility even if you have corrupted (and more importantly, vital) blocks. A much better check is to run the resulted image through Degraded v1.1, which will highlight any errors.
A NAND with bad blocks usually looks like this:
Note in this example that the bad block information has been located elsewhere, so you *should* be okay. Even so, it's advisable to run a second dump through the utility and see whether this has a bad block (and relocated) in the exact same address. If this is the case, you should be good to go.
A good NAND dump might look like this:
If you get this, great :) Your NAND dump is about as good as it's gonna be!
NAND Compare and Reconstruction Tool A nice tool to check/verify your Xbox 360 NAND dumps and potentially even repair them if you have at least 3 'bad' dumps.
- compare 2 nand images
better than simply using md5 as it tells you which blocks are mismatched, which allows you to reread only those that are in error rather than the entire chip (speeding up the process) one use of this is when verifying a write by reading back the nand and comparing it against the original you wrote, if you get a bad block just reread that individual block, patch it into the full read and compare again (files are reread each time you click compare, no need to reselect the same files in the gui)
- reconstruct image from 3 bad reads
assumes that read errors don't occur in same place each time, which is true for some read errors (e.g. lpt timing problems), if there is a good reason why you can't read something then this may not be true this tool cannot recreate a nand out of nothing, if you give it 3 files full of zeros you'll get a recreated nand full of zeros, always look at a dump to make sure it looks correct (e.g. has a microsoft copyright at the top, once you've reconstructed a nand open it in 360 flash tool and make sure it reads ok there) the tool works by comparing blocks between the 3 files, any block found matching in 2 (or 3) of the files will be considered good, you will be warned if not all blocks can be recovered, in which case you'll need to get more reads or look for a good reason why your reads are so bad
Official Site: http://www.xboxhacker.net/index.php?topic=13208.0